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When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.